Firstly, the sailors' underwear.
Sailors tightening the sail on a topsail in the 19th century. By Antoine Léon Morel-Fatio - Photographed in Histoire de la Marine française illustrée, Larousse, 1934 Originally, illustration from La Marine, Pacini, 1844, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org
A marinière was originally designed to keep you warm on a boat- warm under your sailor's jacket, since it was originally an undergarment, meaning something you wore underneath your clothes.In this case, the striped knit (the other name for the marinière) is a kind of blouse, not too close to the body, with a high but wide collar, no buttons and no seams to prevent it getting caught in the ropes that were so numerous on 18th century boats. It's long and low, because it's used as underwear, and it's discreet. You don't see many marinières in paintings of the past, simply because people weren't often painted... in underwear.
We see a sailor's sailor's jersey (with vertical stripes) worn by one of the sailors on the famous raft of the Méduse (a ship that sank in 1816) painted between 1818 and 1819 by Théodore Géricault (1781-1824).
And then came the stripes
First of all, it's important to remember that stripes didn't get much press in the old days- they were worn by convicts, for example - so no one would have thought of showing up in a sailor's striped jacket, at the risk of causing a scandal.And yet everything changed, especially in terms of "fashion", although we're surprised to hear the word "fashion" being used, given that it was a military idea. The Russians were the first to take inspiration from the sailors' striped sailor's uniform from Brittany to dress their national navy. The uniform was black and the stripes were white. The British took up the idea. France also made it official dress with the imperial decree of 27 March 1858, which made striped knitwear compulsory for French sailors. Until then, there had been no official dress in the navy, unlike in the army.
Why stripes on a sailor suit?
A sailor wearing a marinière. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: Depositphotos.
They say it's to help spot a sailor who's fallen at sea. What is certain is that the 1858 decree is very precise: it stipulates that an "official" sailor's uniform must have 21 white stripes 2 centimetres wide and 20 indigo blue stripes 1 centimetre wide on the torso and back. 15 white stripes and 14 stripes of the same indigo blue must be visible on the sleeves.The marinière was no longer hidden, but displayed. It was no longer necessarily made of wool, but of cotton. And it was longer than it had been originally, as it had to come down to mid-thigh, which prevented the buttocks of sailors leaning over the rail or on the quayside from being seen, and they no longer wore it by tucking it into their trousers, but over them. There is still an official sailor's strip in the French Navy, but the strip has become very popular for several reasons...
Coco Chanel, Jean Paul Gautier... When fashion adores the sailor suit.
Coco Chanel in a sailor suit
As we've seen, the marinière has always been popular in Brittany, and that's logical, as the sailors' vest was worn a lot in the region that produced so many sailors. In fact, it's still worn a lot in Brittany today. Paid holidays and the return of holidaymakers brought it out of the region. But it is to three great names in French fashion that the marinière owes its international stature and the fact that it is one of the emblems of French dress. Coco Chanel was the first to make it fashionable, wearing it herself in 1913. Its simple sailor collar, a far cry from the frills of its time, made such an impact that it became quite iconic among a certain class of society. Yves Saint Laurent launched a "matelot" collection in 1966 and used it as a dress (worn by the very elegant Catherine Deneuve). Finally, in 1987, Jean Paul Gaultier brought it back into fashion by wearing it himself and having his models wear it. Since then, it has even featured on the bottles of "le mâle" perfume.
The sailor suit has never looked so good.
It is sold just about everywhere in the world, with Saint-James, one of the French producers, selling more than 40% of its production abroad (particularly in South Korea). Armor-Lux , meanwhile, sells more than 500,000 pairs every year, mainly in France. Le slip français, meanwhile, offers some very nice ones. In any case, don't forget to buy a French sailor's jacket: it's solid and will last over time.
