Our translator loved the Camargue so much that he became a Guardian. We're having trouble replacing him, so our plumber has taken over the translation. If he's as good at that as he is at repairing... There could be mistakes!
The Camargue: what do you need to know?
Flamingos are emblematic of the fauna of the Camargue. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by gayulo from Pixabay
Where is the Camargue?
Map of the Camargue. Screen copy of Google Map.
It's complicated to define a land that has no administrative boundaries, but you could say that the Camargue covers the Rhône delta on the borders of the Gard and Bouches-du-Rhône departments. To the north lies the capital: Arles, part of which is the largest commune in France. The heart of the region lies to the south, along the coast, and includes Les Saintes-Marie-de-la-mer. To the west is the medieval town of Aigues Mortes and Le Grau du Roi. To the east is Fos sur Mer, not far from Martigues. There are 3 Camargues. The "Camargue" is located between the two arms of the Rhône, the Petit Rhône and the Grand Rhône, in the centre, the "Petite Camargue" is to the west in the Gard, and the "Plan du Bourg" is to the east of Salin de Giraud and covers the Plaine du Crau.
Water is never far away in the Camargue. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.Com: by gayulo from Pixabay
This is where the salt marshes are located. Water is everywhere, along the Mediterranean coast, but also in the ponds . The largest is the Etang de Vaccarès, but there is also the nearby Etang Impérial, Etang de la Dame, and to the west the Etang de Melégal and Etang de Scamandre. The Camargues Regional Nature Park covers 150,000 hectares and watches over the natural treasures we'll be discovering here. The most important thing to remember is that the Camargue is very rural, sparsely populated and a wild island in a densely populated part of France.
carte de la Camargue. Image via Wikipedia. Par ChrisO, revision by Ulamm (d) — Combination of CIA World Factbook map (Image:Fr-map.png) and Demis Map Server (http://www2.demis.nl/mapserver/mapper.asp) data with additional annotations and modifications by self., Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=53393703
The Camargue is 2,000 years of human history and 10,000 years of natural history
The Rhône Delta was formed 10,000 years ago. It is a fertile land that did not escape the agricultural eye of the Romans, who set up large agricultural estates here. In fact, it is thought that one of them, the senator Camars, from the Annia people, gave the area its name "camaricus", meaning "which belongs to Camar". Camaricus became Camargue over time. With the sea so close and the marshes so large, dykes were built in the Middle Ages. The forest was also cut down and salt began to be extracted from the marshes. In the 18th century, and especially in the 19th century, the dykes became more important. Rice really came into its own in the 19th century, around 1840, even though Sully, Henri IV's minister, had already advocated it in the 17th century. The cultivation of rice, through the development of rice fields, made it possible to control the flooding of the Rhône. After almost disappearing after the Second World War, Camargue rice is now growing on 20,000 hectares.
A manade in the Camargue. Image chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by jacqueline macou from Pixabay
The Camargue has developed its own identity , with its own dialect, Camarguais, and customs that are known far beyond its borders. The manades, these semi-wild herds led by men on horseback, are just as much a part of this identity as the gatherings at Saintes Maries de la Mer .
Inhabitants of the Camargue in the book 'La Camargue gardiane / D'Elly; preface and Provençal poems by the Marquis de Baroncelli-Javon; illustrations by Rivet and Leliepvre; photographs by George and Grün. Published by M. Dalaveau (Paris) 1938. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com via Gallica.fr / BNF
The Camargue - what to see
Pink flamingos are emblematic of the Camargue. They are at their pinkest in winter. Image chosen by monsieurdefrance.Com; by Association Posidonia from Pixabay
The Camargue is a land of nature.
The Camargue is a treasure trove for nature lovers. Its fauna is original and varied. The best known are the famous pink flamingos. Their population is estimated at between 15,000 and 20,000 pairs, who come here to breed every year. Anecdotally, it is the prawns they eat that give them their pink colour, never as pink as in winter when their plumage is thicker. But let's not forget that the Camargue is also home to 400 different species of birds, and as many birds as there are inhabitants. You can see the 9 species of European heron, ibises and even "raucous gulls". Guided tours are available to observe all these birds. You'll need to follow them to make sure you get the most out of your visit, and above all to avoid disturbing the birds that call this place home.
The pink flamingo is very present in the Camargue, where there are around 30,000 individuals every year. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: gayulo from Pixabay
To the left of the estuary, on the Gard side, you can see European Cistude tortoises. They are rare and endangered, but are perfectly happy in their little corner of the Camargue. You can also see the Héron Garde Boeuf, nicknamed that way because it eats the numerous insects that harass the livestock, particularly the famous Camargue bulls.
An ox heron on the back of a horse. It feeds on the numerous insects found in this humid country. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by Pfüderi from Pixabay
What's a manade?
In a nutshell, these are animals roaming freely, or semi-freely. Herds of bulls or horses, guarded and led by a man on horseback called a gardian. The Camargue bull is highly prized in bullfighting competitions, particularly the course de taureaux. Its meat is highly sought-after and is covered by a Protected Designation of Origin (A.O.P.). It is eaten in "gardiane" with rice and olives and cooked in red Camargue or Provence wine (it must be solid).
Manade of horses. Photo chosen by Monsieurdefrance.com Image by Christian Klein from Pixabay
Manades have existed for centuries. The gardian leads the herds from one point to another so that the animals can change pasture. You can follow the herds in the Camargue. This website introduces you to some of them.
The black bulls of the Camargue. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by Christian Klein from Pixabay
Towns and monuments in the Camargue
A great way to discover the traditional habitat of the Camargue. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com by Hans from Pixabay
Les Saintes Maries de la Mer
This pretty seaside town caught the eye of Vincent Van Gogh, who painted it in 1888. The town is often referred to as the capital of the Camargue, because it's in the heart of it all, unlike Arles, the real capital, which is also further from the Mediterranean. Les Saintes-Maries de la Mer is also more typical. The little town is barely above sea level, with a maximum altitude of 6 metres. Its surface area is immense, covering more than 37,000 hectares, making it the 3rd largest commune in France, but it has many natural areas, including more than 30% of traditional Camargue marshland. It has just over 2,000 inhabitants.
The astonishing fortified church of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com by Hans from Pixabay
There are many little streets and you can feel that the town was once surrounded by ramparts, even though they have now disappeared. The fortified church dates from the 12th century. It was fortified to protect its relics from attack, particularly from pirates. On the banks of the Etang des Launes, you'll find the typical cabanes des Launes, also known as gardians' huts.
Pilgrimages to Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Saint Sara. venerated in the crypt of the Church of Les Saintes Maries de la Mer. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com Visibile7via depositphotos.
First called "Notre Dame de la Mer", then "Sainte Marie que de la Barque", the place took the name of Saintes Maries de la Mer in 1838.The name Saintes Maries, in the plural, comes from the discovery of precious relics in the 10th century: those of Mary, mother of Jesus, Salome, half-sister of Mary and aunt of Jesus, Mary Jacoba (or Mary Salome) mother of Saint James, and above all Mary Magdalene, disciple of Jesus, who perfumed his feet and wiped them with her hair on the evening of the Last Supper. These Marys sometimes changed identity over time because one Mary was sometimes mistaken for another. For example, Mary wife of Cleophas was considered to be different from Mary Jacoba before it was thought that they were the same person. According to legend, after Christ's death, the "three Marys" arrived in a boat, accompanied by a 5th saint, Sara the Black, their servant. She is particularly venerated by the gypsies, who come to celebrate her during major pilgrimages. During her procession on the eve of the pilgrimage of the 3 Maries, Saint Sara is the subject of her own procession among the gypsies, and she is immersed half in the sea. The Holy Marys are celebrated on 24 and 25 May and at the end of October. Saint Sara is celebrated by the gypsies on 24 May. It's a very moving occasion.
The pilgrimage. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com Photo by Caroline Hernandez on Unsplash
Arles
Nearly 2000 years after their construction, the Arles arenas are still the pride of the town. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com :by Pfüderi from Pixabay
Arles is the capital of the Camargue. Crossed by the Rhône, which literally cuts it in two and sometimes subjects it to its whims before beginning its delta, which is the very Camargue, it is the largest commune in France and includes a large part of the Camargue. It also has 5 nature reserves, which is exceptional for a French town (53,000 inhabitants). Arles is home to the Camargue national nature reserve, the Coussouls de Crau national nature reserve, the Vigueirat marshes national nature reserve, the Ilon regional nature reserve and the Tour du Valat regional nature reserve. It is also bordered by the Alpilles mountains, around the Montmajour des Olpies monastery, the highest point at 496 metres.
One of the little streets that border the Arles Arena , making a stroll through the town a real treat. Photo chosen by Monsieurdefrance.com: by Pfüderi from Pixabay
It has a rich and ancient history, with the Greeks referring to Arelate as far back as the 4th century BC, shortly after Marseille was founded. Having chosen Caesar, the city became a large Gallo-Roman town, with all the facilities, in particular the Arles arenas, which have survived to this day and are the pride of the town. Arles was also a kingdom, which is why we sometimes say "go to Arles", as if we were going to a country. Its rich past has left behind some very pretty streets and alleyways, private mansions and great monuments, and 44 listed historic monuments, including the Roman monuments, mainly the arena, which is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. You're bound to find a good restaurant in the narrow streets and squares, not far from the obelisk on the Place de la République. Arles is also known for its Easter feria, its rice féria (in September) and its photographic meetings. It's a great place to take some superb photos, including modern ones at the amazing LUMA Arles, an artistic complex whose surprising architecture is well worth a visit.
One of the few busts of Caesar can be found in Arles. It is believed to be one of the only busts of this great historical figure. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com; by Guy Dugas from Pixabay
The Musée Départemental Arles Antique is a unique place that tells the prestigious story of Arelate at the time of its Gallo-Roman splendour. There are some moving busts on display, including one of a child, and above all one of the only (supposed) busts of Julius Caesar. Take the time to visit and marvel at the artistic skills of people 2,000 years ago.
Aigues Mortes
The departure of Saint Louis on crusade from the port of Aigues-Mortes. Illustration chosen by monsieurdefrance. com: By Guillaume de Saint-Pathus, Vie et miracles de Saint Louis - http://www.usu.edu/markdamen/1320Hist&Civ/chapters/15CRUSAD.htm, Domaine public, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=4122269
The fortified town is magnificent, right here in the Gard département. Surrounded by ramparts, like a little seaside Carcassonne, it was created by King Saint Louis (1214-1270), who wanted a fortified port for his crusading expeditions. Take time to walk around the ramparts, past the Tour de Constance and visit the town's churches, in particular the chapel of the white penitents and the chapel of the grey penitents. The arena is called the Plan des Théâtres and is the venue for the great Camargue races. For nature lovers, there are 3 Natura 2000 areas around the town: the Petite Camargue, the Etang du Mauguio and the Petite Camargue laguno-marine. The Aigues-Mortes salt pans produce most of the Camargue's salt at the Marais de Peccais. For children, look out for Lou Drapé, the legendary, huge horse that used to pass through the streets of the town, carrying 100 children on its back, never to return...
The ramparts of Aigues-Mortes. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.Com: by claude alleva from Pixabay
Le Grau du Roi
Still in the Gard, around the Vieux Phare, Le Grau du Roi is the seaside resort of the Camargue. The town literally exploded in the 1960s when mass tourism began to develop here, but that hasn't meant it has lost its Camargue soul, which can be found in the historic town and in the arenas, where the Camargue races are as popular as ever. Sometimes you can watch the Bandido and Abrivados, the return of the herds of bulls to the town, and it's spectacular. As for the architecture, Port-Camargue and its marina, created from scratch in the 60s, offer a chance to rediscover the seaside architecture of those years when more and more French people went on holiday. The Espiguette lighthouse, dating from 1869, is also worth a visit. And you can relax on the beach...
The old lighthouse at Le Grau du Roi. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by Julia Casado from Pixabay
The Camargue: what can you taste?
In general, the Camargue is a gourmet region. You can taste the salt from the salt marshes, the famous Camargue rice, red rice for example (wholemeal and excellent), which has a PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Grown organically, it comes in red, white and black. Produced at a rate of 120,000 tonnes a year, the Camargue bull is also used for cooking, and it has to be said that the meat is very red and not very fatty. Having grazed in the open air, it is very good. It is mainly cooked as a daube, which makes it even better when reheated. Beef is usually cooked as a stew: brouffade. Mutton is cooked with "soupe courte arlésienne", a very thick soup served with mutton and rice. Arles is home to the delicious Arles fish soup, based on the Marseilles bouillabaisse, with conger eel, red mullet, scorpion fish and monkfish. On the cheese side, there is Tomme de Provence and Tomme d'Arles , whose recipes are said to be as old as the ancient Romans themselves.
The famous Camargue rice. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: foto-pixel.web.de via depositphotos.
You can also have a sweet tooth in the Camargue and try the fougasse d'Aigues-Mortes, one of the oldest leavened pastries, which is one of the 13 Christmas desserts in this corner of Provence. It's a kind of sugar brioche flavoured with orange blossom. On the beach, or in the street, instead of churros, you can try fregis, which are elongated doughnuts cooked in oil. Fat but good!
How to get to the Camargue? Info / Web / Geo.
By road
Arles is 7 hours 15 minutes from Paris (via the A7 and A6 motorways), 1 hour from Marseille (96 km) and 3 hours from Lyon (283 km).
Les Saintes Marie de la Mer is 38 km from Arles (37 minutes), and Le Grau du Roi is 53 km from Arles (50 minutes). There is a bus service. The same goes for Aigues Mortes.
By train
It takes between 3.30 and 4.15 hours to get from Arles to Paris by train. Arles station is on avenue Paulin Talabot, and there is also a station at Aigues-Mortes, 115 route de Nîmes.
Guardians in action. Image chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by 2554813 from Pixabay
By plane
Marseille Provence airport (1 hour from Arles)
Avignon airport - 84140 Montfavet - www.avignon.aeroport.fr (50 minutes from Arles)
Nîmes Grande Provence Méditérranée Airport - 30800 Saint-Gilles - www.nimes.aeroport.fr (30 mins from Arles)
Montpellier Méditerranée airport - 34130 Mauguio - www.montpellier.aeroport.fr (50 minutes)
Camargue : Websites
The best: Camargue tourisme.
The official website for tourism in Arles. Very well done.
The Bon port camping site is not bad.
