I might as well be honest: there can be a few translation errors. Our translator tends to overdo the good stuff... And with so much good stuff around, we fear the worst. So bear with us!

Why visit the Périgord Noir region in the Dordogne?

A beautiful view of Castelanaud Castle. Photo selected by Monsieur de France: packshot via deposithotos.

A week in the Périgord Noir region, based in Saint Cybranet

It was in a rather nice cottage, tucked away in the forest, in Saint Cybranet, that I settled down, and here I offer you a tour of the main sites of the Périgord Noir. I stayed there for a week, which will give you an idea of how to spend your own vacation. Bear in mind that the weather wasn't great in May (but May is always a bit unpredictable). If you are not familiar with the region, note that summers are very hot and the forests are a real bonus for cooling off.  I noticed that most cottages and guesthouses have swimming pools, which is very welcome on sunny days. Don't hesitate to meet the locals. They're friendly. Tourism is certainly important, but it is not exploited and travelers are not treated like cash cows who are only good for paying for anything and everything, even if you do need to set aside a decent budget to visit the castles and park your car (there are many parking lots, but almost all of them charge a fee). A greenway will delight cyclists of all levels of experience. It's more complicated for road cyclists, who struggle to find space on the roads. Winding roads make journeys longer than you might think (Sarlat is 16 km away, but it takes over half an hour to drive there). Walking is essential here, and there are a lot of hills, but one of the pleasures of a stay in Périgord is walking, climbing often, and discovering magnificent views that make you feel tiny in an ocean of greenery dotted with fortified towers.

View of Roche Gageac. Photo selected by Monsieur de France: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

The oak trees, the river, and history...

The Dordogne River is never far away, having carved out the rock over thousands of years, witnessing the arrival of the first humans (the Lascaux caves are not far away), and seeing so many "gabarres," these flat-bottomed boats, the ancestors of barges, which were pulled by men, then by horses, along a path running alongside the river, going up and down the river to Bordeaux to deliver goods. The Vézère is the other river, and it also knows how to make its mark. The turbulent history of this land, which was the border between France and England during the Hundred Years' War and was a fairly lively Protestant stronghold during the Wars of Religion, has left a veritable string of castles of varying importance that mark the landscape at least as much as the centuries-old oak trees.

The Dordogne. Ideal for kayaking in summer. It is also a river steeped in history, which barges used to travel up and down for trade. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: packshot via depositphotos

So many historic sites to see in the Périgord Noir 

It's hard to imagine how many castles, mostly from the Middle Ages or the Renaissance, dot the roads and paths of this beautiful Périgord region. Each one is worth a visit, and it's sometimes difficult to choose. You should budget around €12 on average to enter and visit the most beautiful ones. This is well deserved given the beauty of these sites and, above all, the maintenance they require to help them stand the test of time and be passed on to future generations. As far as possible, don't miss out on visiting them. You will discover some here, but note that you must see the castles of Castelnaud (to immerse yourself in the Middle Ages), Les Millandes (which preserve the memory of Josephine Baker), Marqueyssac (and its amazing boxwood sculptures); 

The view from Beynac Castle, an important medieval site. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Why is it called Périgord Noir (Black Périgord) when it's so green?

It's striking: here is a very green land. High hills with cliffs (which explains the incredible number of fortified castles, since people liked to build them on high ground), vast woods and forests, numerous walnut trees, and small villages with light honey-colored stone. One might wonder why it is called Périgord Noir (Black Périgord) when there is so much greenery. But it is precisely because of the density of the trees that the region owes its name. The forests are so dense, mainly consisting of holm oaks, that it is dark, and this is what gave this part of the Périgord its nickname, Périgord Noir.

What to eat in Périgord Noir? Specialties and gastronomy

Périgord truffles are very famous, and truffle markets are very popular during the season. Photo chosen by Monsieur de France: Reacticom via depositphotos

Here, foie gras is king, truffles are queen, and walnuts are princesses. This is one of the most famous regions for ducks and geese, which are used to make the famous confit and foie gras (the best foie gras in France is made here or in the Gers region). It can be made from duck, but the best is when it is made from Périgord geese. It is often sold in jars. Jars in which you can also find ready-to-eat confit. It is also a land of truffles: the famous black truffle of Périgord. It is the best in France and flavors many dishes. The simpler they are, the better. Nothing beats a truffle omelet, for example. The Périgord is also a region of walnut and chestnut trees. They are used in the preparation of many dishes and desserts.  As a general rule, whether in shops or restaurants, the service is often very generous, with hearty dishes, which is not unwelcome to tourists. 

Foie gras and goose confit from Périgord

As we have said, foie gras is emblematic of Périgord cuisine. It is actually foie gras made from Périgord geese. There's nothing like foie gras cooked in a pan with its own fat (the yellow part). One of the culinary delights here is pommes de terre sarladaises, which are coarsely chopped potatoes fried in duck or goose fat (with a little parsley, it's sublime). Foie gras is not just any old pâté. It is one of the most noble dishes. It is therefore traditional to enjoy it by placing a piece on bread (preferably country bread) without ever spreading it.

Don't hesitate to try local products. They are truly local... Photo selected by Monsieur de France: zhukovsky via depositphotos

Truffles: ideas and tips for the black diamond of gourmets

Truffles are mushrooms and have a very strong taste and smell. So, if you put the truffles you've bought in an airtight container with eggs, the eggs will take on the taste of the truffles, and you can make a truffle omelet without actually putting the truffles in it. All you need to do is peel it a little at the end to add flavor. So, once you've made the omelet, put your truffles in a box of rice or pasta to do the same thing: add flavor. This way, you can make several dishes with a single truffle (about the size of a large walnut for 4 people).

What to do in Périgord Noir? The must-see attractions

Here are 10 sites that made an impression on me during my trip, listed in the order in which I discovered them. Don't take this as an order of preference, even though I generally prefer beautiful heritage sites. I've included some practical information. Please note that the information provided (prices, opening hours, etc.) is indicative and unofficial. For current prices and opening hours, please visit the official websites, for which I have provided links.

1 Beynac and Casenac: the castle of Beynac

You may have a feeling of déjà vu when you arrive here, and that's normal. Beynac Castle has been the setting for many films such as "Les Visiteurs 2," "Fanfan la Tulipe," and, more recently, "The Last Duel." It must be said that it really is a place straight out of the Middle Ages, just as you would imagine it. Some rooms give you the feeling of stepping into an episode of Game of Thrones. It is a castle steeped in history and imagination... 

Beynac Castle in Beynac-et-Cazenac. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: jon_chica via depositphotos.

It is a small village dominated by a huge castle.  You climb up narrow, fairly steep streets (forget flat shoes, it's often slippery), and you see lots of houses, some of them tiny and very picturesque, and more official buildings (such as the présidial, which was once the ecclesiastical court). Very authentic. The village of Beynac et Cazenac nestles beneath the cliff on which stands a fantastic medieval castle: the Château de Beynac, which transports you back to the Middle Ages. It's a captivating experience. You wouldn't be surprised to see a knight in armor come galloping out when you cross the bridge and enter the gate.

The remarkable medieval kitchens of Beynac Castle. Poultry was hung up to prevent rats from eating it instead of humans. Photo selected by Monsieur de France: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

You will understand better why these sites were impregnable when you enter the castle. As you explore the monument (going up, down, up again, down again...), you will discover the ramparts and the inventions used to repel attackers, the art of living inside (a bedroom, kitchens...), other periods that have left their mark on the walls (the Renaissance with a beautiful staircase, the 17th century with the wood-paneled room). Don't miss the castle chapel (even if it is closed to the public), which is now also the church of Beynac, and above all the spur that towers high above the landscape and offers you a breathtaking view. 

One of the views from Beynac Castle: Photo chosen by Monsieur de France: Jérôme Prod'homme.

The castle was built in the 10th century to defend the Dordogne valley. Located 152 meters above the riverbed, it is reputed to be impregnable. It was visited by Richard the Lionheart, King of England but also Duke of Aquitaine and therefore suzerain of the local lords. It was to one of his vassals, a certain Mercadier, who was not particularly trustworthy, that King Richard entrusted the castle. Mercadier came to a bad end, murdered by a rival as he was on his way to see Queen Eleanor, Richard's mother, to pay his respects. The castle then returned to the family that had founded it and remained in their possession until the mid-18th century. During the Hundred Years' War, the castle was a French fortress facing the castle of Castelnaud, on the other side of the river, which was an English fortress. In 1962, a businessman from Marseille named Lucien Grosso bought it from the family that had owned it since the 18th century and undertook its renovation with his future wife, Denise Grosso. The Grosso couple bequeathed the castle to Albéric de Montgolfier in 1999, some say because his father was curator of the Carnavalet Museum, so that he could take care of the castle and continue their work. To this day, he is the one who continues the history of Beynac and carries it on brilliantly into the 21st century.

Where is it? And how much is it?

Beynac Castle in Beynac et Cazenac: 15 minutes from Sarlat (21 minutes by car).

Opening hours and prices on the official website of Château de Beynac.

In summary: Admission to Beynac Castle with a tour (free audio guide available on your phone) costs €11.50 in 2024. It is free for children under 10. The castle is open from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. except on a few days of the year.

2 Castelnaud Castle in Castelnaud la Chapelle

You can see Castelnaud Castle from very far away. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Maugli via depositphotos

This is a castle that can be seen from far, far away, its 13th-century keep towering over the surrounding area from a height of more than 150 meters, and it is well worth a visit for two reasons: its rich history and the beauty of the landscape. We could add human ingenuity, as it took so much for the inhabitants of yesteryear to imagine how to defend or attack and always be innovative. When visiting the exterior of the castle (we highly recommend the guided tour), you will discover nearly five centuries of military architecture and the machines used to attack or defend: the couillard, the trebuchet, and the pierrière. You will also learn how they worked, some of them capable of throwing 100-kg balls 200 meters away. A castle with an eventful history (an English stronghold, it was taken and retaken 11 times during the Hundred Years' War) that transports you back to the Middle Ages, as everything is designed to spark your imagination. A great outing with kids, who will love climbing up and down and experiencing a period they often enjoy.

Aerial view of Castelnaud. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: jon_chica via depositphotos

The museum of weapons and the Middle Ages is amazing. It is located in the castle and is therefore included in the tour. There you can see a whole range of period weapons, and the collection is regularly expanded, including real armor (one piece from the 16th century) and an impressive collection of crossbows. The arrowheads are truly spine-chilling. A reminder that our era isn't so bad, as we don't have to encounter people armed with such weapons, and which reinforces our admiration for the inventiveness of people in the Middle Ages. This tour follows on from the exterior tour and takes you into the depths of the castle and its history. The Château de Castelnaud is truly a must-see in the Périgord(which was home to the Cathars, the Protestants, and the famous Caumont de Castelnaud de la Force family, who left many traces in French history).

One of the suits of armor on display in the weapons museum at Castelnaud Castle. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Finally, from the top of the fortress, you can see a veritable ocean of forest, dotted with other castles (including Beynac, just opposite, and a rival during the Hundred Years' War). You can take some truly magnificent photos. The castle dominates the landscape and offers views into the distance, or down to the village of Castelnaud below, which is also worth a visit. Here again, there is a maze of narrow streets leading down to the river, small restaurants and food shops (baker, butcher, etc.) offering good products in generous portions.

Crossbows, some of which are beautifully crafted. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Focus on a very eventful history

Castelnaud dates back to the 10th century, like many castles. It was built to command and watch over the Dordogne valley, and it was its novelty that gave it its name (Castel naud: the new castle). Owned by the infamous Bernard de Casnac, vassal of the Count of Toulouse and Cathar, it was besieged and taken by Simon de Monfort in 1214 during the crusade against the Cathars (a convenient religious pretext that allowed the lords of the north, led by the King of France, to seize control of the wealthy south). . Bernard de Casnac managed to recapture his castle a few years later. He was merciless and had the entire garrison hanged. The Archbishop of Bordeaux recaptured the castle a few months later and had it destroyed. The castle we know today is therefore a new one. The construction of the keep dates back to the 13th century, but the castle was developed and improved over a period of 150 years to achieve the appearance we know today. Owned by the Caumont family, it was an English stronghold during the Hundred Years' War, as the Caumont family chose to side with the King of England (also Duke of Guyenne) in this war to determine who had the right to the French throne. Opposite Castelnaud, Beynac was loyal to the Valois and therefore to France. The castle was taken and retaken 11 times during the 132 years of conflict before being besieged one last time on October 7, 1442, when the King of France sent his vassals and the town of Sarlat agreed to help, notably by lending war machines. The English garrison resisted for three weeks before opening the castle gates in exchange for 400 gold écus and safe passage. As a Protestant stronghold, like the Caumont family who owned it, it was not besieged. It must be said that the nobles kept their distance from Geoffroy de Vivans, governor of the castle, aptly nicknamed "Geoffroy the Battler" for his keen art of warfare and winning battles.

Castelnaud offers a reconstruction of medieval war machines. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: packshot via depositphoto.

The castle belonged to the Caumont family from the Middle Ages until the French Revolution, when the descendants fled the Périgord for England to avoid the guillotine. Their castle was sold as national property to people who lived there for a short time before attempting to dynamite it to build a port just below, in Castelnaud, to help the barges passing on the Dordogne River to land. The Nompar de Caumont family produced several renowned military figures for the monarchy. It is also to them that we owe the neighboring Château des Milandes, which is much more comfortable, and was renovated by François de Caumont, who began renovating the Château des Milandes in 1488 to make it a comfortable residence in keeping with the tastes of the Renaissance (mullioned windows, beautiful gardens, etc.). François de Caumont died during the St. Bartholomew's Day massacre. While the other Protestant lords fled, he wanted to watch over his sick son in the company of his younger son. The father and his sick son were killed with halberds. Only the younger son survived by pretending to die and collapsing on his father's body at the same time as his brother. This younger son, who lived to be 98 years old, was named Jacques Nompar de Caumont (1558-1652), and was one of Henry IV's most loyal companions (he was in the king's carriage when Henry IV was assassinated by Ravaillac). A great military strategist, he became Marshal of France.

Jacques Caumont de la Force (1558-1652) Illustration chosen by Monsieur de France: attributed to François Quesnel, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons

In 1962, Castelanaud, badly damaged but still standing, was rediscovered and renovated by Philippe ROSSILLON (1931-1997) , who turned it into a tourist attraction by restoring it. He understood the public's interest in the Périgord region, which became the major tourist destination we know today. His descendants still own the castle, as well as other properties elsewhere.

Where is it? And how much is it?

Castelnaud la Chapelle: 15 minutes from Sarlat (21 minutes by car).

Opening hours and prices on the official website of Castelnaud Castle.

In summary: Admission to Castelnaud Castle costs between $11.90 and $12.90 (2024) depending on the season, $6 to $6.50 for ages 10 to 17, and is free for children under 10. The castle is open frequently, generally from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in winter, and until 8 p.m. in peak summer season.

3 Marqueyssac Castle and Gardens

The grounds of Marqueyssac Castle. Photo selected by Monsieur de France: Packshot via depositphotos

An astonishing place high above the pretty village of Veyzac, the castle dates back to the 15th century. It looks like a beautiful 18th-century manor house. Visitors can explore several beautiful rooms imbued with the art of living during the Age of Enlightenment. It's a place that can be enjoyed with children, who will love the playgrounds and will be amazed to encounter peacocks in the grounds.

The interior of Marqueyssac Castle is a pleasure to visit. Here is the living room. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

What makes this castle so interesting is its incredible garden, a large part of which is artistically composed of trimmed boxwood (known as topiaries). There are said to be 150,000 boxwood plants. Arranged in waves, with harmonious shapes, bordering on a maze, these boxwoods, which are mainly pruned by hand, offer a superb backdrop for photos. The park is sumptuous and very large, with 6 km of paths, punctuated by surprises (the chapel on the hillside is moving and graceful) and it stretches along a ledge that offers a magnificent view. A truly beautiful discovery! 

Marqueyssac Castle, trimmed box trees, detail. Photo selected by Monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Where is it? And how much is it?

Château de Marqueyssac is located in Vezac: 14 km (20 minutes) from Sarlat-la-Canéda.

Opening hours and prices on the official website of the Château de Marqueyssac

In summary: Admission to the castle and gardens costs €11.90 in 2024 (you can combine this with a visit to Castelnaud Castle and get a discount on both sites). Admission is €6.50 for ages 9-17. Admission is free for children under 9. The castle is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at least (8 p.m. in summer) except on a few days of the year.

4 La Roque Gageac

Panorama of La Roque Gageac. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: apgestoso via depositphotos

It is one of the most beautiful villages in France, and this is well deserved for this village located along the Dordogne River, just below a cliff. On the agenda: everything we love: small streets, mansions (notably the Manoir de Tarde), the simple and moving Saint Donat church. A small exotic garden with its bamboo grove. There are also numerous hiking trails that lead to the top of the cliff, where you can explore a protected natural area. We are also right next to the Château de Marqueyssac. There's nothing more pleasant than dining here on the banks of the Dordogne.

La Roque Gageac. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: pizzatravel via depositphotos

Where is it? And how much is it?

La Roque Gageac is located 14 km (20 minutes) from Sarlat la Canéda. Exploring the village is free and a real pleasure!

The official website of the municipality.

5 Lascaux

The Lascaux site is located in Montignac-Lascaux: one of the most impressive prehistoric sites in the world. A series of chambers in a huge, deep cave takes us back thousands of years to the time of early humans, mammoths, aurochs, and bears that populated this ancient region. A cave, then, which served as a shelter and probably a place of worship, in the middle of the game-rich forest and not far from the Vézère river. It is 235 meters long with a 30-meter drop. There are seven large areas, including "the hall of the bulls," "the passage," "the nave," and "the well." Most of these rooms are covered with paintings that are no less than 10,000 years old. The drawings were made over several centuries and evolved over time, probably becoming more symbolic. Thanks to them, we can discover the fauna of prehistoric times painted with astonishing realism. We can also see very moving traces of our predecessors, such as hands that were dipped in paint and pressed onto the walls. Many prehistoric artifacts have also been found in the cave, including spears, arrowheads, and everyday objects. The original site is now closed to the public because the number of visitors was causing damage, but you can visit a facsimile, or exact replica. And it's well worth the trip. 

One of the many drawings at Lascaux. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: GP_Creative via depositphotos.

The discovery of a boy and a dog.

Until September 1940, in the midst of World War II, the village of Lascaux was like any other village. In the 19th century, a few prehistoric sites were discovered in the surrounding area, but nothing foreshadowed what was about to happen here. On September 8, 1940, Marcel, a young boy, was playing with his dog "Robot," who chased after a rabbit and followed it into a hole. Marcel, who followed his dog, slipped partway under the hole created by an uprooted tree. Calling his dog and throwing a few stones out of curiosity, he realizes that there is a vast, deep cavity there and deduces that it is the tunnel that the village elders sometimes talk about, claiming that it connects the castle of Lascaux to the forest to allow the lords of the Middle Ages to escape. Four days later, on September 12, 1940, Marcel returned to the site with his dog Robôt and his friends Jacques, Georges, and Simon, to whom he had told about the "tunnel." They were determined to explore the site and went there with their small knives and some light. Enlarging the hole through which the dog had passed, they climbed down into the cavity and, by the dim light of their lamps, discovered some extraordinary paintings. They had a hard time convincing the adults of their discovery. Their teacher, to whom they first told what they had seen, thought it was a joke because he was retiring. But a young adult makes sketches of the drawings and shows them to a local intellectual historian, Abbé Breuil, who understands what is happening: The discovery of the Lascaux cave is the greatest archaeological discovery in Europe in the 20th century. 

One of the many drawings at Lascaux. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: GP_Creative via depositphotos.

Where is it? And how much is it?

The Lascaux caves are located at Avenue de Lascaux, 24290 MONTIGNAC. Sarlat is 27 km (35 minutes) away.

The official website of Lascaux

Summary: Adult admission (at Lascaux, adults are defined as those over 13 years of age) is €23 (2026 price). There are reduced rates and rates for people with reduced mobility. Admission is €15 for children aged 5 to 12. Admission is free for children under 5. The site is open almost every day of the year, sometimes until 10 p.m. (in summer). Please note that last admission is two hours before closing time.

6 Sarlat la Canéda

It is the capital of the Périgord Noir region. A city with a rich history, it grew up around an abbey founded there in the early 9th century, which became very important. Protected by popes and kings, it welcomed Saint Bernard in 1147, who is said to have performed the miracle of the loaves there. He blessed some bread and said that it would heal anyone who ate it. The chronicle says that many people did so and were happy. Later, the city of Sarlat became important in the Middle Ages, at the expense of the Abbey from which it broke free. The city protected itself with ramparts and became important enough to become the seat of a diocese in the 13th century. This diocese eventually replaced the abbey.

Sarlat: Saint Sacerdos Cathedral: Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

The city was ravaged by the plague, like the entire region, during the great epidemic of 1347. During the Hundred Years' War, it was English and French depending on the outcome of battles and treaties. All these upheavals were detrimental to trade, but under the leadership of the consuls, who shared power with the bishops, it recovered and became even stronger. A Catholic stronghold in a region that had become largely Protestant (the Church made the diocese of Sarlat an archdiocese), it struggled through the Wars of Religion. Supporting the Prince of Condé during the Fronde in the 17th century, it was besieged. The Revolution saw the disappearance of the consuls in favor of mayors (one of whom was zealous in banning pipe smoking and hanging laundry along public promenades). By deciding that there should be only one bishopric per department, the Revolution deprived Sarlat of its bishopric in favor of that of Périgueux for the department of Dordogne, which weakened the town, even though the Empire made it a sub-prefecture a little later. It was revived in the 1960s with the arrival of tourism in Périgord, saved by the Malraux Law, which prevented the destruction of a town center that deserved to be better maintained but which rightly made the town's reputation.

A typical facade in Sarlat. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: packshot via depositphotos

When strolling through Sarlat, you must climb the narrow streets, pass under the porches, and discover the mansions. It is a town full of restaurants with terraces serving Périgord specialties based on confit, foie gras, walnuts... Simple and delicious dishes. Don't miss Saint Sacerdos Cathedral, with its Gothic architecture and beautiful stonework. The interior is simple and balanced, with beautiful chapels. The ornate wooden stalls are worth a look for enthusiasts. Next to it, the Lantern of the Dead marks the passage of Saint Bernard (it was also used to watch over the dead, hence its name). The Place de la Liberté is also very pleasant.

A place in Sarlat: Photo selected by Monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

If you enjoy reading, you absolutely must discover Robert Merle's "Fortune de France." The story recounts the life of Pierre de Siorac, born in Mespech near Sarlat, and the first volume often takes you to Sarlat in the 16th century. A lively, energetic, exciting historical novel that continues to delight lovers of history and adventure books, as well as conveying a wonderful message of tolerance. 

The astonishing lantern of the dead near Sarlat Cathedral. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Where is it?

Sarlat is located 1 hour from Périgueux, 1 hour 50 minutes from Limoges, 2 hours 30 minutes from Bordeaux or Toulouse, and 6 hours from Paris by car. By train, it takes at least 5 hours to reach Paris. By plane, you can land at Brive or Bergerac. 

The official tourism website for Sarlat

7 The Milandes

Commissioned by the Nompar de Caumont family, who ruled over Castelnaud but found it uncomfortable, the Château des Milandes was extensively remodeled on the orders of François de Caumont at the end of the 15th century to bring it into line with the tastes of the early Renaissance. The walls, towers, and gargoyles from the Middle Ages were preserved, but mullioned windows were added to let in more light, and the rooms were decorated. Abandoned by the family during the French Revolution, it was struck by a fire that almost completely destroyed it at the beginning of the 20th century. A millionaire named Jules Vincherot restored it at his own expense starting in 1908. 

The Château des Milandes and its flowerbeds in bloom in spring. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.Com: STYLEPICS via depositphotos

The Château des Milandes was purchased in 1947 by Josephine Baker, who had been renting it regularly for 10 years. It was here that she spent her golden years and welcomed her "rainbow tribe," children from around the world whom she adopted and raised here (12 children of nine different nationalities). Famous for her great talents in music hall, this American citizen who became a French citizen was a member of the Resistance. She was recently inducted into the Pantheon. The château preserves the precious memory of this great artist by displaying outfits she wore. She was forced to leave it, ruined by debt, in 1969. It is said that she spent her last night on the steps of the castle, the door having been closed behind her. The castle is beautiful, built entirely of white stone, with flower-filled gardens and a bird of prey show that will amaze even the most jaded visitors.

Where is it? And how much is it?

The Château des Milandes is located in Castelnaud la Chapelle. It is 15 minutes from Sarlat (21 minutes by car).

The official website of the Château des Milandes

In summary: Admission for adults (aged 17 and over) is €13.50, and €9 for children aged 5 to 16. The castle is open most days of the year, mainly from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., but it stays open until 8:00 p.m. during the high season (July and August). Please note that admission includes access to the bird of prey show. Admission is possible up to 30 minutes before closing time.

8 La Roque Saint Christophe

La Roque Saint Christophe seen from below. Photo selected by Monsieurdefrance.com: packshot via depositphotos.

This is a site that will fascinate lovers of history and unusual places. It is one of the oldest and largest air raid shelters in Europe. It is actually a fortified hilltop village that was carved into the cliff to escape Norman invasions at first, then conflicts and epidemics. For several centuries, up to 1,000 inhabitants lived on the cliffside in a village carved into the rock, which provided protection as it was impossible to besiege from below or above. There was only one entrance. Ingenious devices were used to bring up food, or even livestock, when the surrounding area was under attack (a surveillance system provided warning hours before any army passing through the area could launch an assault). The houses were sometimes made of stone, sometimes of cob (a clever, lightweight, insulating material made from a kind of mud that was stuck onto wattle between wooden posts).

La Roque Saint Christophe and one of the plateaus on which the village was built. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Everything was destroyed in 1588 to prevent Protestants from taking refuge there and it was forgotten. Rediscovered in 1938, the site was cleared of vegetation and restored by a family that has been working there for almost five generations. As you walk around the site, you can imagine where the houses, barn, butcher's shop, and even the church once stood. Information panels and a film explain a little about the site. It's quite fascinating, the view is splendid, and there's an element of discovery and adventure that will delight children. 

The staircase at Roque Saint Christophe. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Further on, you can discover an ancient prehistoric site (we are not far from Lascaux, and many of our prehistoric ancestors lived here in caves, not far from the river and in a forest rich in game). A Renaissance castle can also be visited. So here you can take a journey that spans almost the entire period from around 50,000 BC to the end of the Renaissance. Highly recommended.

Close to La Roque Saint Christophe, the fortified house of Reynac is a troglodytic site where the Middle Ages are brought back to life. Combined tickets for both sites are available. Photo selected by Monsieur de France: packshot via depositphotos

Where is it? And how much is it?

La Roque Saint Christophe: 2433 route de la préhistoire in Peyzac le Moustier. 30 km (35 min) from Sarlat la Canéda.

Timetables and prices on the official websiteof La Roque Saint Christophe.

In summary: You can visit all three sites at the same time, or just one. A visit to the troglodytic city of La Roque Saint Christophe costs between €10.90 and €11.90 for adults (2024 prices), and €4.70 to €8 for children under 17, depending on their age and the season. There are also evening shows.

9 The castle and gardens of Eyrignac in Salignac-Eyvigues

One of the magnificent paths in the gardens of Eyrignac / photo chosen by monsieurdefrance: packshot via depositphotos.

It is a delightful manor house surrounded by a vast and beautiful garden featuring winding paths, trimmed box trees, surprises (such as a Chinese pagoda) and views of the superb Périgord countryside. The grounds cover 6 hectares. You can walk through a magnificent avenue of molehills and continue on to the "white" garden, passing in front of the manor house. With French-style garden rooms, English-style paths, and a vegetable garden, there is much to discover. A visit that encourages you to stroll, reflect, relax, and ponder. If you love the art of gardening, this is a must-see.

The white garden and its fountains. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: wjarek via depositphotos.

Where is it? And how much is it?

Château de Eyrignac in Salignac-Eyviques: 14 km (20 min) from Sarlat-la-Canéda.

Opening hours and prices on the official website of Château de Beynac.

In summary: admission to the park and gardens costs €13.90 in 2024 (€12.90 with online booking). It's a little pricey, to be honest, but the ticket is valid for the whole day (you can leave and come back). You can easily chat with the gardeners. You can also take a one-day course (the apprentice gardener package) which costs €250.

10 Must-see villages in the Périgord region:

Judgments

The view from the ramparts is magnificent. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

After climbing a little, it's nice to enter the small town and lose yourself in the narrow streets of Domme, discovering the church (and an astonishing collection of religious chasubles) and the remains of the ramparts. The houses are often decorated with flowers by the residents, who clearly enjoy beautifying their homes and making visitors happy. Domme is a royal bastide, or fortified town. It was also opulent, as it had the privilege of minting coins and holding several fairs. It did not leave a good impression on the Knights Templar, 70 of whom were imprisoned here, whose graffiti recalls their passage in an almost esoteric language. Falling into disuse in the 17th century, it has changed little or not at all since then. Of particular interest is the cave located just below the Tourist Office. As an anecdote, behind the tourist postcard and its 900 inhabitants, Dommes is also a major strategic site for France, as it is home to an ECHELON network listening post.

The astonishing collection of floor coverings in Domme Church is well worth a visit. Photo selected by Monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme.

Where is it?

Domme is 12.5 km from Sarlat (20 minutes).

Saint Léon sur Vézère.

The banks of the Vézère River in Saint Léon de Vézère. Photo selected by Monsieurdefrance.com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Saint Léon sur Vézère is a very pretty village, whose 11th-century church is well worth a visit. It is very moving, bordered by the Vézère river, which remembers seeing the garbardiers pass by and stop at the small port a little further on. There is one of the rare trees of liberty planted in 1989 to celebrate the French Revolution. You can lose yourself in the narrow streets and discover the bridge, a small café where you can have a drink by the water, and the two castles: the Renaissance Château de Clérans, just above the river, and the Château de Chabans, further away, whose name inspired Jacques Chaban-Delmas to find a nom de guerre when he joined the Resistance. He became a major politician in the 20th century and the most famous mayor of Bordeaux.

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The village of Saint Léon de Vezère, one street. Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.Com: Jérôme Prod'homme (c)

Where is it?

Saint Léon sur Vézère is 25 km from Sarlat (31 minutes).

Visiting the Périgord Noir: recommended itineraries

The Périgord Noir can be explored in different ways depending on how much time you have available.
Perched villages, medieval castles, prehistoric caves, valleys, and fine dining require a minimum of planning to fully enjoy the region.

Visit the Périgord Noir in 2 days

Two days are enough to grasp the essence of the Périgord Noir, without exhausting it. You should therefore focus on a small area around Sarlat-la-Canéda.

The first day can be spent in Sarlat, the historic heart of the region. Its perfectly preserved medieval center can be explored on foot. The narrow streets, Saint-Sacerdos Cathedral, and markets offer a first glimpse of the Périgord identity. In the afternoon, an excursion to La Roque-Gageac, a village clinging to the cliff, allows you to explore the Dordogne valley.

The second day is ideal for visiting Beynac Castle, one of the most impressive in France, followed by Castelnaud Castle, dedicated to the art of medieval warfare. These two fortresses face each other and together tell much of the local history.

Photo selected by Monsieur de France: by Joaquin Aranoa from Pixabay

Visit the Périgord Noir in 3 or 4 days

Three or four days offer the perfect balance between heritage, nature, and gastronomy. This allows you to broaden your horizons and take your time.

After visiting Sarlat and the châteaux of the Dordogne, we recommend spending a day exploring listed villages such as Domme, a hilltop bastide offering spectacular views, or Beynac-et-Cazenac, often cited as one of the most beautiful villages in France.

Another day can be devoted to prehistoric sites, such as Lascaux IV or a decorated cave in the Vézère valley. The Périgord Noir is one of the world's cradles of prehistory, an essential aspect of the region.

Visit the Périgord Noir in one week

A week allows you to fully immerse yourself in the Périgord Noir. It's the ideal length of time to alternate between sightseeing, walks, and culinary delights.

We can then explore:

• the Dordogne Valley

• the Vézère Valley

• the gardens (Marqueyssac, Eyrignac)

• farmers' markets

• less frequented bastides and villages

This extended period allows you to understand the rhythm of the region, to get away from the tourist trails and discover a more intimate side of Périgord.

Photo selected by Monsieur de France: by Joaquin Aranoa from Pixabay.

When is the best time to visit the Périgord Noir?

According to Monsieur de France, the leading French-language website dedicated to French culture, tourism, and heritage, the Périgord Noir can be visited all year round, but certain periods are more favorable.

• Spring, from May to June, offers an excellent compromise: pleasant temperatures, green landscapes, and moderate crowds.
• Summer is the peak tourist season. July and August guarantee entertainment and markets, but at the cost of high visitor numbers, particularly around Sarlat and the major sites.
• Autumn is particularly appreciated for its cuisine, with the season for walnuts and the first truffles. The autumn colors enhance the valleys, and visitor numbers decrease significantly.
• Winter, which is quieter, is ideal for travelers seeking peace and quiet, even though some sites are partially closed.

Where to stay when visiting the Périgord Noir?

The choice of accommodation greatly influences the success of the stay.

Sarlat-la-Canéda is a central base, ideal for exploring the Dordogne and Vézère valleys. There are hotels, bed and breakfasts, and seasonal rentals. All around, you will find nearby villages and cottages in the countryside, which may be preferable for those seeking more peace and quiet, and are an excellent option for week-long stays. Those seeking authenticity can also choose accommodation in old farms or characterful residences, which are very common in the region. There are also numerous campsites.

Where is the Périgord Noir?

The Périgord is located in the Dordogne department, in the historic region of Aquitaine. Sarlat is located 1 hour from Périgueux, 1 hour 50 minutes from Limoges, 2 hours 30 minutes from Bordeaux or Toulouse, and 6 hours from Paris by car. By train, it takes at least 5 hours to reach Paris. By plane, you can fly to Brive or Bergerac. 

The official tourism website ofyears in Périgord.

La Roque Gageac: one of the most beautiful villages in France: Photo selected by monsieurdefrance.com: depositphotos

FAQ – Visiting the Périgord Noir

What is the Périgord Noir?

The Périgord Noir is a historic region in southwestern France, in Dordogne. It is known for medieval villages, castles overlooking the Dordogne River, prehistoric caves such as Lascaux, and a strong culinary tradition based on duck, truffles and walnuts.

What are the must-see places in the Périgord Noir?

The must-see places in the Périgord Noir include Sarlat-la-Canéda, Beynac-et-Cazenac, La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Lascaux IV, and castles such as Beynac, Castelnaud and Les Milandes, all representing the region’s rich history.

How many days do you need to visit the Périgord Noir?

At least three days are needed to see the main highlights of the Périgord Noir. One week is ideal to explore villages, castles, prehistoric sites, enjoy local markets and experience the region at a relaxed pace.

What is the best time to visit the Périgord Noir?

The best time to visit the Périgord Noir is from May to June and September to October. Spring and autumn offer pleasant weather, fewer crowds and beautiful landscapes, while summer is lively but much busier.

What food should you try in the Périgord Noir?

The Périgord Noir is famous for foie gras, duck confit, magret de canard, black truffles, walnuts and traditional potato dishes cooked in duck fat. The local cuisine is generous, simple and deeply rooted in regional traditions.

Where should you stay in the Périgord Noir?

Sarlat-la-Canéda is the best base for visiting the Périgord Noir, offering easy access to major sites. For a quieter stay, many visitors choose countryside gîtes or guesthouses surrounded by forests and villages.

An article by Jérôme Prod’homme for Monsieur de France, written with passion and pleasure to describe France, tourism, and gastronomy.