La Mayenne in brief
The Mayenne has just over 300,000 inhabitants and three main towns : Laval (around 50,000 inhabitants), Mayenne and Château-Gontier. All three are located on the banks of the river that gave its name to the department, which was born in 1790 and flows 202 km from the Mont des Avaloirs (the highest point in Western France at 417 metres above sea level) before emptying into the Maine at Angers. It' s a department packed with vibrant little towns like Ernée, Craon (with its superb 18th-century château), Evron, Gorron, Ambrières-les-Vallées and Pré-en-Pail. A land of gourmet delights, of course, with famous rillettes (from Gorron: the best!), entrecôtes (in Evron), apples in all their forms (thanks to the verges du Bocage), including cider and pommeau, and a good deal of river fish, thanks in particular to the River Mayenne, which is the backbone of this département, where green offers an incredible palette of colours. Bright and clear in spring, deeper in summer, in the hedges that escort you along the northern roads, and in the fields with grass that in itself justifies Mayenne's status as a horse and livestock breeding department. It's a postcard department, with its many twists and turns offering typical villages with churches, town halls, war memorials and cafés. Very often a château is not far from the village. It has to be said that there are a lot of them here, and they have often been lived in by the same family for a very long time. It's a great place to stay if you like greenery and a peaceful break listening to the crickets, far from the main tourist attractions, but never too far from the main roads or major towns. A delightful place, close to nothing... But not far from everything!
Where is Mayenne?
In the Pays-de-la-Loire region. This is the département that forms a corner with Brittany on the left and Normandy above. Laval is 3 hours from Paris by car via the A11 and 2 hours on average by train and TGV station (12 journeys a day). Rennes is 45 minutes away, as are Angers and Le Mans.
Greenery is the hallmark of the Mayenne department. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: frederiquewacquier via Depositphotos.com
10 places to see in Mayenne
1 Laval
It's the 'capital' , as it's the prefecture of the Mayenne department. A beautiful town with a population of around 50,000, it spreads out around the river, which takes its time flowing through it, offering a few thrills as you pass through the locks. A river with character. It changes in height and colour, depending on the weather, which gives it plenty of reasons to be whimsical. There's nothing more pleasant than walking along or crossing the river, for example on the "Pont Vieux" (Old Bridge), which dates back to the 13th century (it's solid!). You can also enjoy a drink on the banks of the river in summer at the Halte Fluviale (which also hires out electric boats if you fancy a spot of freshwater sailing).
Laval seen from the river Mayenne. In front: the old bridge, which dates back to the Middle Ages, on the right the "old castle" and its circular keep and the "new castle" and its lighter facade. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: Depositphotos.com
What to see in Laval: the châteaux. There are two of them, the "château-vieux" and the "château neuf". The two are very close and even a little intertwined, as you can enter both buildings from the (pretty) Place de la Trémoille. The old castle dates back to the Middle Ages and is remarkable for its rare circular keep, still topped with "hours", which were used to throw a whole series of not very nice things at attackers. Next door, the new château, which for a long time was the town court, is more delicate with its 16th-century windows and sculpted doors. These can be visited (including a museum of naive art). Around the châteaux and the Place du 11 Novembre (the heart of the town), there are shopping streets and small streets that lead from the river up to the châteaux and the cathedral. Rue de la Trinité, for example, has some pretty timber-framed houses. There are also some fine private mansions (the Hôtel du Plessis d'Argentré is outstanding) and the Science Museum building is well worth a visit (not just for its collections, the facade is so typical you'd think it was straight out of an American fantasy film).
Rue de la Trinité. Typical of the charming little streets around the cathedral and castle that you walk up from the banks of the river. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: depositphotos.com
Laval was the birthplace of many talents: Ambroise Paré (c. 1509-1590), before becoming the personal surgeon to the kings of France and inventing artery ligation, was born here and learned the basics as a barber (hairdresser!) and therefore as a surgeon (in the Middle Ages, barbers were also those who performed medical procedures such as bloodletting). Alfred Jarry (1773-1907), the father of "Ubu Roi", was born here. So was Alain Gerbault (1893-1941), navigator and explorer. A man with an incredible destiny, he was an aviator during the First World War and became famous for his solo circumnavigation of the globe in 1929. Among other anecdotes from a life full of twists and turns, he was one of the rare reasons for interrupting the Davis Cup when he arrived unexpectedly to cheer on the French team (he was a renowned tennis player himself). Laval has, unwittingly, made a speciality of seeing the birth of artists in the 'Art Naïf' movement, first and foremost the Douanier Rousseau (1844-1910) and his paintings, then Robert Tatin (1902-1983) and his sculptures (which can be seen at the Musée Tatin in Cossé-le-vivien, as we shall see). If you like art, you should visit the MANAS (in the Château), which specialises in Naïve Art, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts .
The astonishing viaduct overlooking the town and the river. On the side of the river, the river stop where I recommend you have a drink. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: depositphotos.com
Last but not least, Laval is a sporting city, particularly when it comes to football. The famous Stade Lavallois club brought glory to the city in the 1980s and continues to do the city proud at the Francis Le Basser stadium. The club is also an integral part of the Mayenne identity, along with the local radio station France Bleu Mayenne, long known as "Radio Mayenne" and the oldest local Radio France station.) In short, the Tangos (named after the orange colour of their shirts) are cheered on here.
Practical info :
- Laval is 3 hours from Paris by car via the A11.
- Laval TGV station offers 12 return trips a day to the capital. Rennes is 45 minutes away, as are Angers and Le Mans.
- Visit the Laval Agglomeration Tourist Office website.
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
2 Sainte Suzanne
Magnificent village with its castle. A real favourite that we couldn't forget to introduce to you. Sainte Suzanne is a village with just over 800 inhabitants. The village is perched high on a hill. It is mainly made of white stone, which gives it different shades depending on the mood of the sun. The village's elevated position gives it a commanding view of the surrounding area and a glimpse of trouble ahead, which explains the presence of an important fortified castle in the Middle Ages (William the Conqueror laid siege to it). In the middle of the Middle Ages, it had no fewer than 11 towers. Virtually ruined in the 16th century, the castle was rebuilt in the Henri IV style by its new owner Guillaume Fouquet de la Ravenne in 1608. He gave it the look it still has today, taking one of the towers and integrating it into the new buildings. A historic monument since 1861, partly restored in 1969 to become an arts centre, it has been the property of the Département de la Mayenne since 1998.
The village of Sainte Suzanne seen from the Tertre Ganne. Image chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: Image by baccus7 from Pixabay
There's more to Sainte Suzanne than the château. You can get lost in the narrow streets. The church of Sainte Suzanne is well worth a visit, particularly for its slate bell tower. Around the town, there are some great walks to be had, particularly at Clairbois, which is a recreation of a medieval camp, or at the Ganne Mound , where you can take some wonderful photos. In the countryside, you'll come across the Erves dolmen, over 5,000 years old and the oldest monument in the Mayenne.
Practical info :
- GPS address of the château 1 Rue Fouquet de la Varenne, 53270 Sainte-Suzanne-et-Chammes
- Laval is 43 km away (38 minutes' drive). Paris is 2 hours 37 minutes away via the A11. There is no train station.
- Discover the Tourist Office website (very well done)
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
3 Mayenne
Mayenne with the river, the castle and the Notre-Dame des Vertus basilica. Phoro chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: Christian via depositphotos
It's the town of Mayenne, on the banks of the Mayenne, in the department of ... La Mayenne. It's so simple! It's a town of just under 13,000 Mayennais , with a pretty town centre around the river and at the foot of a castle, just like Laval. Most of the castle's features, notably the keep, date from the 13th century. The town gave its name to an important family, the most eminent of whom was Duke Charles de Mayenne (1554-1611), one of the leaders of the League and an enemy of the French kings Henri III and Henri IV before finally rallying to the throne. The town boasts a number of attractive town houses , including the Hôtel Montpinçon and the Hôtel Chappedelaine with its pretty turret. Also worth a visit is the Basilica of Notre Dame des Miracles and, above all, the pretty and discreet Church of Saint Martin, one of whose facades is 1,000 years old. The countryside around Mayenne is magnificent, and absolutely green. You can also visit the site of Jublains (20 km), once the ancient city of Noviodunum and home to several thousand inhabitants in Gallo-Roman times. Much remains, such as the surrounding wall and the thermal baths (in the church), and you can visit the Jublains archaeological museum.
Practical info :
- Laval is 33 km away (25 minutes' drive). Paris is 3 hours 12 minutes (286 km) away via the A11. Just under 4 hours via the N12.
- Mayenne station is located on Place Gambetta.
- Discover the Vallée de Haute-Mayenne Tourist Office website
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
4 Lassay-les-châteaux
It's honestly one of the most beautiful villages in France. It's full of treasures, such as the rose garden (magnificent, installed by a landscape gardener in 1993), a medieval garden, wash-houses, charming little streets and several castles. The best known is the château-fort, which the de Montalembert family is doing its utmost to maintain. An impressive castle straight out of the Middle Ages. The most important part dates from the 14th century, but its roots go back to the 12th century. With its towers and keep, it is still equipped as if it were going to withstand a siege, with a drawbridge, a barbican (to slow down the arrival of attackers at the gate) and the towers are still topped, which could allow the besieged to throw a lot of nasty stuff through the machicolations.
The fortified castle of Lassay les châteaux. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: by baccus7 from Pixabay
Lassay is also home to the partly ruined Château du Bois-Thibault, a highly romantic and inspiring site. Speaking of inspiration, Victor Hugo himself came to Lassay. He even drew a picture of the château. The town is linked to a number of characters, notably the Marquis de Lassay family, one of whose members was reputed under Louis XIV to be an inveterate womaniser. He is even said to have inspired Don Juan. His son, Léon de Mardaillan, Marquis de Lassay, built a sumptuous mansion in Paris. It became the residence of the President of the National Assembly (and one of the best wine cellars in the capital). Also of note is the astonishing Jean Baptiste Volcler (c. 1760-1813), who was curate (assistant to the parish priest) of Lassay before becoming its mayor during the French Revolution. A great revolutionary, he had quite a few people guillotined and would have done worse if he had been allowed to do so, to the point that he was put on trial after the Revolution. He ended up in Abbeville in the Somme running an inn and having a family.
Facades in the village of Lassay Les Châteaux. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: packshot / dépositphotos.com
Practical info :
- Lassay is 50 km away (40 minutes' drive). Paris is 3H30 (304 kms) via the A11. 4 hours via the N12.
- There is no station
- Visit the official Château de Lassay les Châteaux website.
- Visit the tourist office website
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
5 Château-Gontier sur Mayenne
A town of around 16,000 Castrogonters (not easy, is it?!). It takes its name from a certain Gontier, who owned his castle in the 11th century. As a matter of interest, during the French Revolution, the name of the town was changed to Mont-Hardi, because the "château" was far too aristocratic. It really is a superb town, set on the banks of the Mayenne and literally crammed with monuments, each more beautiful than the last. There are 15 historic monuments in Château Gontier (the Mayenne people sometimes say Chio to make it go faster). These include the remains of the castle, the churches of Saint Jean Baptiste and La Trinité, and a number of private mansions, including the Hôtel du Tertre de Sancé, the Hôtel de Lantivy, the Hôtel de Saint Luc and the Manoir de Monviant. This is already the Anjou region, particularly the Haut-Anjou, which explains the light-coloured stonework.
Château Gontier seen from the Mayenne. Image chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: Christian via depositphotos.
Practical info :
- Château Gontier sur Mayenne is 31 km from Laval (40 minutes' drive). Paris is 3 hours 30 minutes away (285 km) via the A11 motorway.
- The station is located at 12 avenue de la Gare (but please note that tickets are sold at 12 avenue du Maréchal Joffre).
- Visit the Sud-Mayenne Tourist Office website.
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
6 The Robert Tatin Museum
Painter, sculptor and ceramist Robert Tatin (1902-1983) was a leading figure in the Naïve Art movement. He created a world of his own, which never fails to captivate and seduce. In Cossé-le-Vivien, at a place called "La Frénouse", he installed an "art environment". This monumental work became a museum with the agreement of André Malraux, who inaugurated it himself in 1969. The Robert Tatin Museum attracts more than 30,000 visitors every year.
Practical info :
- Cossé le Vivien is 20 km from Laval (20 minutes' drive). Paris is 3 hours 30 minutes (304 km) away via the A11. 4 hours via the N12.
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
7 Pontmain
The blue tones in the Basilica of Notre Dame de Pontmain are magnificent. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: FranckA123 via depositphotos.com
It is the smallest of the great Marian shrines in France, but Pontmain is a very important place from the point of view of Catholic Christians, since the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared there on 17 January 1871 during the night. The Barbedette children, who were pounding gorse for their cattle in a barn, went outside and saw a "tall lady" above the house opposite. Dressed in a blue dress studded with stars and crowned, she stood there for a moment and broadcast this message: "But pray, my children, God will hear you in a short time. My son lets himself be touched". In the Mayenne countryside, there are many calvaries with a red cross, like those that accompanied the Virgin at Pontmain. This religious site is officially recognised by the Church, in the same way as the major centre at Lourdes.
Notre Dame de Pontmain depicted in one of the stained glass windows in the basilica. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: FERNANDES Gilbert via wikicommons.
The village is home to the Basilica of Notre Dame de Pontmain, built in 1874 under the spot where the Virgin Mary used to stand. It is magnificent in its blue colours. The church of Saint Simon and Saint Jude, not far away, is very old, dating back to the Middle Ages, although it was remodelled in the 17th century. It has the atmosphere of a typical small country church, contrasting with the large volumes of the nearby basilica. Also worth seeing is the "Barbedette" barn , where the children were at the time of the visions. Finally, the Pontmain Contemporary Art Centre is well worth a visit. The same goes for the countryside, with its hedges, and the surrounding villages: Landivy, Fougerolles and, further afield in the Manche department, the ruins of Savigny le Vieux Abbey.
Inhabitants of Pontmain in 1871, with children in the front row attesting to having seen the Virgin Mary on the night of 17 January 1871. Old postcard. Public domain / Wikipedia.
Practical info :
- Pontmain is 55 km from Laval (48 minutes' drive). Paris is 3 hours 40 minutes away (325 km) via the A11 and A81 motorways.
- The official website of the Pontmain sanctuary.
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
8 The towpath
It literally follows the River Mayenne, which makes sense as it was used to 'haul' barges, with horses linked by cables walking along the path alongside the river to pull the barge. This "walking path" has been preserved from those days, and has become one of the most beautiful greenways in France, stretching for 85 km and offering superb opportunities for discovery. You can walk along the river, see the countryside and often come across castles. In fact, you can hire a barge to take you along the Mayenne river. It's a real change of scenery.
The towpath passes through Château-Gontier. There are barges available for hire. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com Christian via depositphotos.Com
Practical info :
- The towpath can be found from many places, but don't hesitate to visit this site.
- A barge rental site on the Mayenne river
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
9 The Saulges caves
This is a group of several caves (grotte coudreuse, grotte de Rochefort, grotte de la Chèvre, grotte de la Baleine even!) that are more or less close to the river Erdre. They were inhabited in prehistoric times, more than 25,000 years ago, as numerous excavations have attested. There are also caves in other nearby communes, such as "la Cropte" (which means "the cave" in Old French). A museum provides an opportunity to explore some of them. An astonishing site.
Practical info :
- Saulges is 40 km from Laval (30 minutes' drive). Paris is 3 hours (250 km) away via the A11 and A81 motorways.
- The official website for the Saulges caves
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
10 Mont des Avaloirs
Mont des Avaloirs is the highest point in the whole of Western France (as far as Brest, that is! It's a big place in the West). It reaches a height of 417 metres. At the top, a platform (with quite a few steps) allows you to discover a beautiful panorama as you emerge from the trees. You can see the Pail plateau (and its forests) and the Signal d'Ecouves, the highest point in neighbouring Normandy at 378 metres. The Mont des Avaloirs lies between 3 départements - Mayenne, Orne and Sarthe - so there are plenty of nice places to discover in the surrounding area. These include pretty villages like Boulay les iffs in Mayenne, Saint Ceneri le Gérei in Orne (with its ancient church, chapel and streets... a magnificent and very poetic village) and Saint Léonard des bois (dominated by large escarpments).
There are lots of forests around Mont des Avaloirs. Photo chosen by monsieurdefrance.com: smithore via depositphotos.
Practical info :
- Mont des Avaloirs is located in the commune of Pré en Pail. It is 68 km from Laval (1 hour's drive). Paris is 3 hours 10 minutes (270 km) away via the A11 and A81 motorways. 3 hours 20 minutes via the free N12, which passes through Pré en Pail.
- The Communauté de Communes du Mont des Avaloirs website with routes to discover.
- Discover the Mayenne tourism website.
Sorry for the mistranslations, but our translator is from Mayenne, so he went to his grandmother's for the weekend and still hasn't finished all the delicious things she prepared for him. We had to manage on our own.
